Last month, Sonoma Saveurs [restaurant] was spray-painted and flooded by vandals because of a delicacy that will appear on its menu and in its store: foie gras, the fat-engorged liver of force-fed ducks and geese. Connoisseurs consider foie gras the epitome of culinary civilization. But animal rights activists who claimed responsibility for the destruction ... call foie gras the ''delicacy of despair,'' born of cruelty to animals. The Federal Bureau of Investigation called the attacks here acts of ''domestic terrorism.'' With its associations of gastronomic elitism -- foie gras retails for around $20 to $25 a quarter-pound -- its production has long been high on the hit list of animal protectionists. Israel, the world's fourth-largest supplier of goose foie gras, recently banned the force-feeding of geese and ducks, as have Denmark, Norway, Poland, Austria and Germany, all after pressure by animal rights activists. Switzerland and the United Kingdom now discourage its production, said Paul Waldau, a clinical assistant professor at the Center for Animals and Public Policy at Tufts University. Organizations like In Defense of Animals and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals contend force-feeding is inherently inhumane. ''Migratory fat bears no resemblance whatsoever to ramming a pipe down ducks' necks, pumping pounds of corn mash down their gullets and distending their livers,'' said Ingrid Newkirk, the president of PETA. ''These geese and ducks can't fly up the garden path, let alone migrate.''